Discover the hidden history of Gosaba in the Sundarbans. Learn about Sir Daniel Hamilton’s revolutionary social experiment and Rabindranath Tagore’s historic visit to the iconic Hamilton and Bacon Bungalows. A must-read for any Sundarban Travel Guide.
As someone who grew up in Lahiripur, right here in the heart of the Sundarbans, I’m used to the stories people tell about my home. When the world talks about this UNESCO World Heritage Site, they speak of the Royal Bengal Tiger, fierce Saltwater Crocodiles, and the relentless struggles of our fishermen and Mowal (honey collectors). But there’s another story, a history etched into the very soil of this land, that often goes untold. This is the story of Gosaba, a dream envisioned by a Scottish visionary and blessed by the footsteps of a world-renowned poet.
The Man Who Tamed the Tides: Sir Daniel Hamilton
The story of modern Gosaba begins with Sir Daniel Mackinnon Hamilton, a Scottish businessman who arrived in Calcutta to work for MacKinnon & MacKenzie. Rising to become the head of the company in India, Sir Hamilton became an incredibly wealthy man. But his gaze wasn’t fixed on the riches of the city; it was drawn to the vast, untamed mangrove ecosystem of South Bengal.
In the early 1900s, Sir Hamilton purchased a massive tract of land—around 9,000 acres—in Gosaba. Over two relentless decades, he achieved what many thought impossible: he carved a series of thriving villages out of the unforgiving mangrove delta along the Matla River. He established a revolutionary system of co-operative societies, rural banks, and reconstruction institutes, pioneering a model of self-sufficient rural development. He even introduced his own one-rupee note for use in Gosaba, a testament to his self-contained vision.
His legacy still stands today, quite literally, in the form of two bungalows he built: the ‘Hamilton Bungalow’ and the ‘Bacon Bungalow’. Built with solid teak wood from Myanmar and raised four feet off the ground to protect against tides and wildlife in Sundarbans, these structures are living relics. This unique history was even immortalized by the renowned author Amitav Ghosh in his celebrated novel, ‘The Hungry Tide’.
When a Poet Visited a Pioneer’s Dream: Rabindranath Tagore in Gosaba
This is where our story takes another historic turn. Sir Hamilton’s radical ideas about rural self-sufficiency deeply resonated with another great mind of that era: Rabindranath Tagore. The poet, a passionate advocate for village reconstruction, had traveled the world but was fascinated by the experiment unfolding so close to home.
At Sir Hamilton’s personal invitation, Tagore came to Gosaba to witness this grand project for himself. In December 1932, the seventy-one-year-old poet spent two nights—December 28th and 29th—at the Bacon Bungalow. A plaque in front of the main door proudly states: “Rabindranath spent here in December 1932”.
Details of his visit paint a vivid picture. The locals saw him as a god-like figure, with his wise eyes and flowing white beard. His cook recalled that Tagore had no caste prejudices and would enjoy simple meals of tea, fruits brought from Calcutta, and the famous local Gosaba bananas. This historic meeting of minds remains a cornerstone of West Bengal History.
A Glimpse into the Past, A Fear for the Future
For anyone on a Sundarban tour, a visit to these bungalows offers a unique journey back in time. Having had the chance to visit with special permission, I can say that stepping inside feels like entering another century. Sir Hamilton’s large beds, chairs, dressing table, an old water filter, and his massive trunk are still there. On the walls, fading photographs of him and his wife, Lady Mary Elizabeth, watch over the rooms.
But seeing these historic structures also fills me with a deep sense of sadness and urgency. The Bacon Bungalow and Hamilton Bungalow, which hold a century of history and are patterns of our unique heritage, are slowly fading away due to neglect. These aren’t just old buildings; they are the soul of Gosaba’s modern history, a symbol of a dream that once flourished in the heart of the mangroves.
As a son of this soil, I believe it’s our collective responsibility to protect this legacy. This is not just Hamilton’s history or Tagore’s history—it’s our history. It is a vital part of any Sundarban itinerary that values more than just forest life. And it’s a story the world needs to hear.